Hook and Needles: Knitting and Crochet Blog (cool stuff, techniques, and things I find)

In part 1 of the Amigurumi Tutorial I showed some of the basic crochet techniques needed to make an amigurumi. In part 2, I’ll go over amigurumi patterns and how to read them. There are three basic kinds of patterns for amigurumi:

1. Regular patterns: much like knitting patterns, they explain what to do in each row. These patterns are easier for beginners. Most patterns are written in this manner. See an example of a teddie bear here.
2. Row charts: these are abbreviated versions of regular patterns, so instead of describing what you need to do each round, they only tell you how many stitches per row. Unless otherwise specified, you single crochet each row in the round. See a doll’s row charts.
3. Charts: graphical representations of patterns. You usually only find them in books (or Japanese sites), which will explain the notation they are using. I find them tedious, so I won’t even attempt to explain them in this tutorial, sorry. If you like, you can see a chart example to make a cat’s toy.

Regular patterns

To be able to read a pattern you first need to know what the standard abbreviations are. The following is a short list of abbreviations common for amigurumi patterns. For a complete list of crochet abbreviations, go to Lion Brand’s illustrated abbreviation dictionary.

• beg – beginning or begin.
• ch(s) – chain (pulling the yarn through the loop once, like when making a chain).
• dec – decrease (usually by crocheting 2 stitches together: sc2tog)
• inc – increase one (usually done by making two stitches in the same stitch).
• rep – repeat.
• rnd(s) – round
• sc – single crochet.
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (a decrease).
• 2 sc in next sc – 2 single crochet in the next single crochet (an increase).
• sk – skip a stitch (another way to decrease)
• st(s) – stitches

Note: I’m using standard US terminology, which is different from UK crochet terminology.
So let’s analyze a line from a pattern:

Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around – 24 sc.

In round four you are to single crochet twice in the next single crochet (an increase of 1), then single crochet once in the next stitch, and single crochet once in the one after that (a total of 4 stitches). You then repeat that to the end or the row. At the end of that row, you should have 24 single crochets. Another, shorter way of expressing the same round is:

Rnd 4: [inc 1, sc 2] 6 times – 24

Some patterns will tell you to start with a chain of 2, but you can use the magic ring method instead:

Ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch

Instead of chaining 2, you can just make a magic ring with 6 single crochets in it. As long as you have the number of stitches required in row 1 you can use whichever method works for you.

In the next video I follow a pattern to make a small ball. It not only illustrates how to follow pattern directions, but it also shows how to use stitch markers, right vs. wrong side, stuffing, and binding off.

Row Charts

These patterns are for more experienced crocheters with a couple of amigurumis under their belts. They assume you know when and how to increase and decrease. Here’s an example of the first four rows of a pattern:

1. 6
2. 12
3. 18
4. 24
5. 30
6. 30

Which means that you should start in the round with 6 single crochet (via magic ring or 2 chains). Then you’ll be increasing by six on each round as follows:

1. Start with 6 single crochets – 6
2. *2 sc in next sc * around – 12
3. *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc * around – 18
4. *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc * around – 24
5. *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc * around – 30
6. sc in each sc around

As you can see it’s a bit harder, but it has it’s logic. Notice how the number of single crochets (after the increase) grows on each round (from 0 in round 2, to 3 in round 5).

Additional considerations

For amigurumis, unlike other crochet and knitting patterns, gage or tension is not important when doing amigurumi. It’s not like it won’t fit you. The only thing that you need to know when choosing yarn and hook size, is that it needs to be tight enough so the stuffing and/or pellets won’t show or fall between stitches. As a rule of thumb use a hook on or two sizes (half to one millimeter) smaller than recommended on the yarn’s label. As long as you keep your crocheting even, you should be fine.

For amigurumi you’ll usually need more supplies than just yarn and hook. Here’s a short list of some of the materials I keep handy:

• Polyfill stuffing (find one that doesn’t feel lumpy)
• Lentils (you can also use poly-peleets, but they are harder to find)
• Embroidery thread and needle (for smiles and other details)
• Safety eyes (you can use felt instead)
• Tapestry needle (for joining all the parts)

Also, since you are going in spirals, you need to keep track of where the round starts. Place a marker (it can be scrap yarn or a safety pin) to indicate beginning of each round; move the marker up as each round is completed.

Patterns

Start with something easy, like BitterSweet’s Birds of a Feather, or Lion Brand’s Amigurumi Octopus. You can find other patterns at:

• Lion Brand has a pretty good collection of amigurumi for beginner patterns. It requires registration, but it’s free.
• Ana Paula Rimoli has some great patterns in her Etsy store, and some free ones in her blog. She also has a new book.
• Owlishly also has very cute things in her Etsy store. Her patterns are a bit more challenging, though.
• Ami List is a site that tracks down and lists amigurumi patterns. There’s a little of everything.

In part 3 I’ll cover some additional techniques you may need when making amigurumis.

Go to Amigurumi Tutorial 1, Amigurumi Tutorial 3